Bet you were holding your breath for April’s Surfing Blogspurt, anticipating the excitement of flicking through the news and videos, but as there wasn’t one and you’ve been holding your breath for an entire month, means you’re probably dead… I was off gallivanting in waves instead of blogging, but I’m paying for it now with my ankle on ice after getting mashed by a wave earlier this week.
So you’re dead, I’m injured. Hairy ball sacks.
In the remote seaside village of Vanimo in Papua New Guinea, there are hardly any jobs—but there are infinite prime waves. Twenty years after the first board was introduced on the island, surfing has become a way of life. This spirited Splinters Documentary shows fascinating glimpses into a rare culture and follows four local surfers competing in the country’s first-ever national surfing championships.
McNamara goes big in Portugal
McNamara Breaks Big Wave Record and successfully rides 78′ wave in Nazare, Portugal.
Surviving Surfing the Wedge.
“Here’s the thing about the Wedge, that crazy mutant wave that gives Newport Beach, California, surfing its jagged and rusty teeth: 90 percent of the takeoffs are going to end in mayhem and a sand sandwich. The Wedge is formed when swells hit a jetty and are channelled into the corner formed between the breakwater and the beach, jacking waves up to three times the size you’ll find elsewhere. Because the tubes are huge, chaotic, and mostly closeout, it’s primarily a body surfing break, but standup surfers hit it, too. And as you can see in this retro-fitted video from Korduroy, the percentage of death rides might be 95. But that’s part of the appeal — the drops and coverups are extraordinary, even if short.”
The Wavegarden system has been in development since 2005 and a prototype installation has been built in Northern Spain. It promises consistently rideable waves of all shapes, sizes and speeds that will hold their form (even tubes) over distances limited only by the body of water where it’s located. Action can be dialed up or scaled down to suit any skill level, although the designers recommend 5.25 ft (1.6m) waves for most activities. Each wave forms with a clean face and beaks as a tube. Bottoms, which range from 3.3 ft (1m) to 6.5 ft (2m) deep, are engineered to mimic reefs and sand bars.
An Interview with John Florence
“John Florence is cursed. Cursed by all the terrible possibilities that face a prodigy of his mould. Possibilities like world domination. His style is totally raw and uncoached! Can you believe it? He learnt it all on the North Shore, too, felt it out on the sand of Ehukai, then took it over to the reef at Pipe. And the skating helped, especially with the tech. “He’s so comfortable being upside and inverted from skateboarding that it’s difficult to even comprehend what he’s doing,”
Gimme a play-by-play, after winning a contest, from podium to bed?
I went back to my hotel room and my phone had a bunch of texts from home, from friends and family, so I called them first, my mum and my brothers. When I got back to my room I was really tired, y’know, I was overwhelmed from everything. So I rested, I took a nap and hung out in my room for a coupla hours. We had a pool downstairs so afterwards, I went down and did a bunch of interviews by the pool, with lots of local media.
After that… it was funny, y’know, I thought everyone was leaving Brazil early, so I was gonna get outta there. Then when I got down to the pool, Yadin (Nicol), Kerrzy (Josh), Occy and all those boys were down there having cold beers. They were like “Nope, you’re not leaving.” I was like, fuck… (laughs). So I changed my plans and we ended up having a really fun time. We went out to dinner at a Churrascaria with the sickest crew, maybe 20 of us. It was all the guys I said just before, plus the Hobgoods, Freddy P(atacchia), (Brett) Simpo, the Gudangs and more. We got all the tables in the restaurant and put them into a big U shape, so everyone was facing everyone. Then we went out to a bar, everyone was drinking, it was really fun. Such a great night.”